Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Keepin it eezy.

Hello Dabbers,
it's been long, sleepless, and a now jet-lagged adventure, but I'm back from Japan and have the hard iMovie-fought goods with me. Forgive the lack of Problem names and grades.. I'll have them eventually, but wanted to put this up instead of waiting for all of the email responses to come in. (Truth be told, I don't know for sure that I could even translate the names... or grades for that matter, anyway.) Mr. GK, Mr. CL, I've stolen the eezy theme. It fits. If you want it back, leave 20,000 RMB and a cold stone creamery gift certificate underneath the 45 at the dentists.

I'm sure we can work something out.

Two more areas in the works. Later all, see you soon.

Japeezy from joshunojoshu on Vimeo.

Sunday, October 26, 2008


Originally uploaded by yangwave
um. yeah.

Saturday, October 25, 2008

a day in the woods

From climbing

since no one else was willing to ditch work, school, or whatever obligations they felt beholden to keep, I engaged a stealth solo mission to pcg. it was a prototypically amazing fall day on the gneiss. I almost ended my day early by re-spraining my ankle on the walk in!

undeterred, I recalled the advice of my middle school football coach, "walk it off son" and proceeded to the boulders with ginger step. not so secretly, I wondered if my ill-luck on the approach would translate into the same such for climbing. Fortunately, after a slow, tentative warm-up, it turned into my best day ever at the ice pond.
deep woods off


I also returned to settle scores with "birds of a feather (on which I sprained my ankle last time). There is some weird mojo happening with injuries right now. beware, climb safe.

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Holy. Epic. Batman.

Well, it's been an epic week. To say the least. Last Tuesday, Mr.Robinson was topping out his nemesis, the Never Ending Story. He was a move away from the finishing jug (for the second time that day) when his right foot slipped off and he took an extremely uncontrolled fall. I was unable to get a solid hold on him, and he landed on his foot, very awkwardly. The landing zone under Never Ending Story is all rock, and the first thing out of his mouth was "I broke my ankle!". We immediately submerged his foot in the river and with the help an amazing Swedish couple, and a nice British crew, were able to get him out safely, and into a hospital in Chur, which is about 30k away from the Magic Wood.

One screw, some sewing, and three nights later Paul was out of the hospital, and just flew back on Monday. On the drive back to the apt on Friday, Ryan and I stopped over in the Magic Wood to head back over to the Bruno Bloc (the river boulder). While warming up on the Super Nova, the slopiest problem one can imagine, he tore the gnarliest flapper I've seen. Seriously. I though I heard his fingernail ripping off. It wasn't. Good lord it was heinous. I did put down the Never Ending Story part II, 8a with authoritay. Snap.

Anyhow, here's a vid of Paul killing it. Footage of NES II and other dank things to come. JYEAH

The Riverbed from Garrett Koeppicus on Vimeo
And you can peep more info from our trip over at Trill Talk: With Ryan Sewell

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

AHEM! Random Pics from Teh Souf.

Just a few shots I found on the desktop *cough*

LRC - Chattanooga, TN
G on The Shield

Tennesse E, working Redhouse, Super Mario Boulder

ROCKTOWN - La Fayette, GA

Rescue 911
You guys haven't seen this problem. But I think you'd all like it.
Slopies, the bit of chalk cropped out at the very bottom of the frame
is the 2nd or 3rd hold on the problem. Starts in an open-pit type thing. Climbs up, out, and up. Spotter on the platform.
Spotter down in the depths...if yer feelin scurred!

Left Side of the Photo Sherman Roof - Brown Hole

Inspired by an Idiot Roof

Just Sayin.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Dabbing in the Orient

Hi all! Remember me?

Last week I finally got to climb on some real rocks out here in Singapore. The Dairy Farm is an area with a few sport routes in an area that was a quarry at some point in the past. These days it's more or less jungle, which makes for some dramatic approaches.

Climbing there is a little risky, since the blasted rock can apparently come down at very bad times. However, I was climbing with a few folks who run the local gym that I've been climbing at, and they seemed to know what they were doing.

After some delays owing to all the belay devices being with someone who had wandered off to get some food, we climbed a 5a and followed it up with a 6a+ (about 5.6 and 5.10a respectively). All the climbs were super slopey, and the humidity didn't help matters. Nor did my overall lack of skillz. Still I had a lot of fun.

Cap it off with a bit of abseiling and a quick sprint back to civilization while being pursued by an absolutely epic thunderstorm and you've got a more-or-less perfect day.

Great to see all the updates. Keep 'em coming, wherever you are!

Monday, October 13, 2008



Short vid from the rocktown session today...well I guess technically yesterday now, haha. I was going to wait to use a better song and work on the editing, but impatience got the best of me. Hope you guys like it. PSYCHED!!! Weather is getting good down here and the leaves are just starting to turn. W3RD to what EM said, psyched to see the updates from all you guys, keep it up!

Vid: Helicopter Sit and some variation on the Tractor Traylor problem on the Idiot Roof. Yay-er!!

ROCKTEEZY from Redcrashpad on Vimeo.

Saturday, October 11, 2008


Enjoying all the various posts from near and far and looking forward to dabVoltron reuniting in the near future. ¡Saludos!

Monday, October 06, 2008

The Black Mirror

This is The Black Mirror. It is classic. It is high. It is 9-10 meters tall. The crux comes with your feet 4 meters. It is V7. And it is amazing. YOU GUYS WOULD CRUSH. And yes, I did pitch off the middle a number of times.

Saturday, October 04, 2008


Sounds like Brione provided Garrett and Paul the same kind of weather that Eric and I experienced at Peter's Kill yesterday. In our case, we may not have had quite as cool a setting, but we had a dry late afternoon and got some great climbing in. Can we get a huge posse out sometime soon?

Friday, October 03, 2008


Yesterday we hit up Brione. It was wet, and rained on and off, but was the driest of the areas. This place is amazing, it is rapidly becoming my favorite area. Sick boulders, great rock, unbelievable setting, wether it's climbing right next to the river or up in the meadow (granted there are some cow pies here) it is AMAZING. One of the best locations I can think of to warm up, at all levels. Nice high slab/face, aretes, all moderate, steep jug hauls, all while being surrounded by mountains, meadow, and old houses.

Ryan Sewall has joined us from Texas. He's a strong lad, and quickly hooked up the moves on The Cellar Door. Paul nabbed the guessed second ascent of it. Dosage III doesn't do this problem justice, both in it's beauty and scariness. WERD. Here are a couple of pics, more vid to come in a few days.

Rest day today, and then back to climbing tomorrow. Psyched to have a camera again!