Thursday, April 14, 2011

More Sandstone

A couple shots from the other weekend at LRC.

Dave Failla on Mono Doigt v5
Mono Doigt

Initially, thinking of mono pulling was pretty much a turn off for me, but the pockets scattered up the face turned out to be vurr cool. I bet this thing climbs even better will cool temps. Juicing the first "mono" requires bearing down with the middle finger and stacking the ring and index finger (or whatever u can fit on top of it. You then get a high step on a gunksy pebble or start hold) and crank up to a smaller mono, then balancy move surfing out left to good pocket, jack up feet then either weird-extended-cross move to crimp rail or top out straight up via slopppperz. Like a Boss. A V5 BOSS. OHYAYER.

Now and Zen v6/7
Now & Zen (V6/7)

Sharp left hand crimp and slightly less sharp right hand pinch to start. Right heel up on shelf then big move (for me) to accuracy-requiring-bastard-crimp. Adjust feet, catch small crimp out left then fun surfing via jugs to top. This thing was pwning me, kinda threw a wobbler, can't lie. Waaaahhh!!! Oh, bouldering...

asdfasdf. I am vicariously bouldering through blog. Hope there is climbing this weekend. HOLLAH!!


Photos by Stevenosloan, here is his flickr:
Mr. Sloan's Flickr

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