Higher ground proved fruitful on seepy day.
Monday, April 18, 2011
Thursday, April 14, 2011
More Sandstone
A couple shots from the other weekend at LRC.
Dave Failla on Mono Doigt v5

Initially, thinking of mono pulling was pretty much a turn off for me, but the pockets scattered up the face turned out to be vurr cool. I bet this thing climbs even better will cool temps. Juicing the first "mono" requires bearing down with the middle finger and stacking the ring and index finger (or whatever u can fit on top of it. You then get a high step on a gunksy pebble or start hold) and crank up to a smaller mono, then balancy move surfing out left to good pocket, jack up feet then either weird-extended-cross move to crimp rail or top out straight up via slopppperz. Like a Boss. A V5 BOSS. OHYAYER.
Now and Zen v6/7

Sharp left hand crimp and slightly less sharp right hand pinch to start. Right heel up on shelf then big move (for me) to accuracy-requiring-bastard-crimp. Adjust feet, catch small crimp out left then fun surfing via jugs to top. This thing was pwning me, kinda threw a wobbler, can't lie. Waaaahhh!!! Oh, bouldering...
asdfasdf. I am vicariously bouldering through blog. Hope there is climbing this weekend. HOLLAH!!
xoxo,
CHL
Photos by Stevenosloan, here is his flickr:
Mr. Sloan's Flickr
Dave Failla on Mono Doigt v5
Initially, thinking of mono pulling was pretty much a turn off for me, but the pockets scattered up the face turned out to be vurr cool. I bet this thing climbs even better will cool temps. Juicing the first "mono" requires bearing down with the middle finger and stacking the ring and index finger (or whatever u can fit on top of it. You then get a high step on a gunksy pebble or start hold) and crank up to a smaller mono, then balancy move surfing out left to good pocket, jack up feet then either weird-extended-cross move to crimp rail or top out straight up via slopppperz. Like a Boss. A V5 BOSS. OHYAYER.
Now and Zen v6/7
Sharp left hand crimp and slightly less sharp right hand pinch to start. Right heel up on shelf then big move (for me) to accuracy-requiring-bastard-crimp. Adjust feet, catch small crimp out left then fun surfing via jugs to top. This thing was pwning me, kinda threw a wobbler, can't lie. Waaaahhh!!! Oh, bouldering...
asdfasdf. I am vicariously bouldering through blog. Hope there is climbing this weekend. HOLLAH!!
xoxo,
CHL
Photos by Stevenosloan, here is his flickr:
Mr. Sloan's Flickr
Labels:
boudering,
getting too hot down here,
lrc,
mono doigt,
now and zen,
want to climb,
wobblerz
Thursday, April 07, 2011
Update 1.1
New features
Upload GPS tagged photos from your library (purple pins)
See your uploaded photos (Green pins)
See community photos (Red pins)
FB feed and Twitter Feed
Maps maintain last zoom view
Better list view
Who wants to help tag up more of the Gunks?
I'm going to go up sometime next weekday.
SLAAABBB!
The Rib
Three Star v1 @ Little Rock City
Vur Fun, Vur Nice. Do it twice, pls. K? Thx!
Steven O. Sloan floating it.
Also, it is gettin freeking warm down here. Rope action is imminent. Not sure how I feel about that. Pfwah!! Should be good. Maybe. Waaaaah!!
xoxo,
CHL
Three Star v1 @ Little Rock City
Vur Fun, Vur Nice. Do it twice, pls. K? Thx!
Steven O. Sloan floating it.
Also, it is gettin freeking warm down here. Rope action is imminent. Not sure how I feel about that. Pfwah!! Should be good. Maybe. Waaaaah!!
xoxo,
CHL
Labels:
bouldering,
lrc,
slllllaaabbbb,
stevenosloan,
the rib,
v1
Monday, March 28, 2011
FRIDAY RE-DUBZ
Some random shots i pulled from the piddly photo pool I haz at the moment. Lots of rain down here lately, this weekend looks like it may be good though! Will hopefully have something fresh for you dabbers then.
Want to climb which joo guuyyysss. Hollah!
Golden Boy
Splashback
Tunnel Vision
OMGZ RE-DUBZ!
Want to climb which joo guuyyysss. Hollah!
Golden Boy
Splashback
Tunnel Vision
OMGZ RE-DUBZ!
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Quarte and Deuce My Loade
Big Up to Bissel for channeling the day's energy with this fantastic little vidsky. A muy bueno start to the season.
Gunks Bouldering - March 2011 from e b on Vimeo.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Cliffer
Hey all,
No doubt some of you have heard the news, but our traveling boy has managed to bust his ankle. He's making serious sad face right now, so I'm trying to organize something for him. The cost of the surgery will wipe him clean, and end his trip way, way, way too early.
Check out the page I put up, and if you can, help give our sausage-finger buddy a hand.
cheers.
http://keepcliffclimbing.wordpress.com/
(also, please post/repost. thanks dabbers!)
No doubt some of you have heard the news, but our traveling boy has managed to bust his ankle. He's making serious sad face right now, so I'm trying to organize something for him. The cost of the surgery will wipe him clean, and end his trip way, way, way too early.
Check out the page I put up, and if you can, help give our sausage-finger buddy a hand.
cheers.
http://keepcliffclimbing.wordpress.com/
(also, please post/repost. thanks dabbers!)
Friday, March 18, 2011
Street Mosaic
As some of you know, I have been working on launching a digital guidebook. The result has taken some time but Version 1 is officially in the Apple App Store for the iPhone. Here is the Link.
While designed for any type of travel, Street Mosaic origin was actually climbing focused. Now its an easy way to ge0-tag a climb or anything you want. All you have to do is take a pic, write a quick description, and share it.
The app does the mapping and sharing and you can search the database for nearby climbing no matter where you are.
Images people take can help in the actual identification of the climb instead of a hand-drawn pic.
Most importantly, I made it FREE.
Wednesday, March 02, 2011
Springtime PSYCH!
Something from the way-back machine. I needed some springtime psych, so I went digging through archives this morning. Here are more old photos than you could ever shake a stick at:
Sunday, January 30, 2011
Thursday, January 20, 2011
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
Wednesday, December 08, 2010
Sherman Photo Roof
Repeated with the bum knee and wrist. Probably not the smartest thing. Heeee!
photo : stevenosloan
photo : stevenosloan
Originally uploaded by stevenosloan
Monday, November 29, 2010
FRESH.
A little birdy told me where I might find some fresh rocks. Decided to make a little trip with the family over thanksgiving break. The spot may haz potential for teh boulders, but trad lines are the most obvious. Due to time constraints I was only able to see a fraction of the area and I was unable to access the big blocs scoped from top. Could be super rad....could also be chossgarglingturdburgl0rrz. Hopefully the former. We shall see, must go back soon. :)
Foggy ride up the mountain
OOOOOOOMMMYYYYYGGGAAAAAWWWWWDDDDDDD, I SEEEE BOLLLLLLLLDERRRRRZZZ!!!
Big Block
Death Leaf Steepness
Section of sandstone w/ gunksy pebbles. There was also some nice iron plate action going on as well.
pics by p.lee, yay-er!!
Foggy ride up the mountain
OOOOOOOMMMYYYYYGGGAAAAAWWWWWDDDDDDD, I SEEEE BOLLLLLLLLDERRRRRZZZ!!!
Big Block
Death Leaf Steepness
Section of sandstone w/ gunksy pebbles. There was also some nice iron plate action going on as well.
pics by p.lee, yay-er!!
Saturday, November 27, 2010
HP40 Craaaaaack
*lost camera a while back, here's an old one i never posted from the summer*
daaaaaaaaaaaaab!
HP40 night and day sesh. Ran into some psyched kidz from Baton Rougue, LA. Here is E on a short crack problem to the right of God module. I believe it was called something like Hard, Painful and Scary. something like that, hah!
daaaaaaaaaaaaab!
HP40 night and day sesh. Ran into some psyched kidz from Baton Rougue, LA. Here is E on a short crack problem to the right of God module. I believe it was called something like Hard, Painful and Scary. something like that, hah!



Friday, October 15, 2010
Sunday, September 19, 2010
Wednesday, September 08, 2010
Saturday, August 21, 2010
Colorado
Just got back from the Colorado with Mark. Hit up Mt.Evans, area A and Lincoln Lake, and also checked out some of RMNP, seeing Moraine Park, and Chaos canyon. Rock quality is high, but not terribly unique. Most problems were a variation on crimp ladders and/or edges. There is a distinct dearth of problems in the V4-V8 range, and areas don't tend to be very concentrated. Minimum two mile approaches seem to be the norm, with an accompanying elevation change of 1500 feet. Most of the climbing we did was at an altitude of 10.500-12.000 feet. Of course there were some very nice lines but in summary: Colorado, over-hyped.
With that enjoy some videos, and there's a second raw vid of Time Line to give you an idea of size. Gettin' psyched to shralp this season! Woot woot!
With that enjoy some videos, and there's a second raw vid of Time Line to give you an idea of size. Gettin' psyched to shralp this season! Woot woot!
Another Day at Evans from Garrett Koeppicus on Vimeo.
Time Line V0 from Garrett Koeppicus on Vimeo.
Sunday, August 15, 2010
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