Holy. Epic. Batman.

Well, it's been an epic week. To say the least. Last Tuesday, Mr.Robinson was topping out his nemesis, the Never Ending Story. He was a move away from the finishing jug (for the second time that day) when his right foot slipped off and he took an extremely uncontrolled fall. I was unable to get a solid hold on him, and he landed on his foot, very awkwardly. The landing zone under Never Ending Story is all rock, and the first thing out of his mouth was "I broke my ankle!". We immediately submerged his foot in the river and with the help an amazing Swedish couple, and a nice British crew, were able to get him out safely, and into a hospital in Chur, which is about 30k away from the Magic Wood.



One screw, some sewing, and three nights later Paul was out of the hospital, and just flew back on Monday. On the drive back to the apt on Friday, Ryan and I stopped over in the Magic Wood to head back over to the Bruno Bloc (the river boulder). While warming up on the Super Nova, the slopiest problem one can imagine, he tore the gnarliest flapper I've seen. Seriously. I though I heard his fingernail ripping off. It wasn't. Good lord it was heinous. I did put down the Never Ending Story part II, 8a with authoritay. Snap.

Anyhow, here's a vid of Paul killing it. Footage of NES II and other dank things to come. JYEAH


The Riverbed from Garrett Koeppicus on Vimeo

And you can peep more info from our trip over at Trill Talk: With Ryan Sewell

AHEM! Random Pics from Teh Souf.

Just a few shots I found on the desktop *cough*

LRC - Chattanooga, TN
G on The Shield






















Tennesse E, working Redhouse, Super Mario Boulder

















ROCKTOWN - La Fayette, GA

Rescue 911
You guys haven't seen this problem. But I think you'd all like it.
Slopies, the bit of chalk cropped out at the very bottom of the frame
is the 2nd or 3rd hold on the problem. Starts in an open-pit type thing. Climbs up, out, and up. Spotter on the platform.
Spotter down in the depths...if yer feelin scurred!























Left Side of the Photo Sherman Roof - Brown Hole































































Inspired by an Idiot Roof



















Just Sayin.

Dabbing in the Orient

Hi all! Remember me?

Last week I finally got to climb on some real rocks out here in Singapore. The Dairy Farm is an area with a few sport routes in an area that was a quarry at some point in the past. These days it's more or less jungle, which makes for some dramatic approaches.

Climbing there is a little risky, since the blasted rock can apparently come down at very bad times. However, I was climbing with a few folks who run the local gym that I've been climbing at, and they seemed to know what they were doing.

After some delays owing to all the belay devices being with someone who had wandered off to get some food, we climbed a 5a and followed it up with a 6a+ (about 5.6 and 5.10a respectively). All the climbs were super slopey, and the humidity didn't help matters. Nor did my overall lack of skillz. Still I had a lot of fun.

Cap it off with a bit of abseiling and a quick sprint back to civilization while being pursued by an absolutely epic thunderstorm and you've got a more-or-less perfect day.

Great to see all the updates. Keep 'em coming, wherever you are!

ROCKTEEZY

DABBERS!!!

Short vid from the rocktown session today...well I guess technically yesterday now, haha. I was going to wait to use a better song and work on the editing, but impatience got the best of me. Hope you guys like it. PSYCHED!!! Weather is getting good down here and the leaves are just starting to turn. W3RD to what EM said, psyched to see the updates from all you guys, keep it up!

Vid: Helicopter Sit and some variation on the Tractor Traylor problem on the Idiot Roof. Yay-er!!


ROCKTEEZY from Redcrashpad on Vimeo.

Dyno!?

Enjoying all the various posts from near and far and looking forward to dabVoltron reuniting in the near future. ¡Saludos!

The Black Mirror

This is The Black Mirror. It is classic. It is high. It is 9-10 meters tall. The crux comes with your feet 4 meters. It is V7. And it is amazing. YOU GUYS WOULD CRUSH. And yes, I did pitch off the middle a number of times.

Peepee'sKill

Sounds like Brione provided Garrett and Paul the same kind of weather that Eric and I experienced at Peter's Kill yesterday. In our case, we may not have had quite as cool a setting, but we had a dry late afternoon and got some great climbing in. Can we get a huge posse out sometime soon?

Brione

Yesterday we hit up Brione. It was wet, and rained on and off, but was the driest of the areas. This place is amazing, it is rapidly becoming my favorite area. Sick boulders, great rock, unbelievable setting, wether it's climbing right next to the river or up in the meadow (granted there are some cow pies here) it is AMAZING. One of the best locations I can think of to warm up, at all levels. Nice high slab/face, aretes, all moderate, steep jug hauls, all while being surrounded by mountains, meadow, and old houses.

Ryan Sewall has joined us from Texas. He's a strong lad, and quickly hooked up the moves on The Cellar Door. Paul nabbed the guessed second ascent of it. Dosage III doesn't do this problem justice, both in it's beauty and scariness. WERD. Here are a couple of pics, more vid to come in a few days.

Rest day today, and then back to climbing tomorrow. Psyched to have a camera again!

Fall is Coming

Hullo dabbers,

So the fall is fast approaching down in the south. I was able to get out last Sunday to climb at little rock city, w00t!! It was a fun day of moderate sandstone climbing, trying to warm my body back up in preparation for the seaaaaason! Kinda late, I know. That's what too much time in lab and the library will do. FATSAUCE!! Haha, heading up again tomorrow with Tommy C and Greg (will be his 1st time climbing outside, I'm psyched to get him on real rox).

Here's a shot on a fun face climb, you actually have to pull a couple real moves closer to the ground and the moves are sooper-lax the rest of the way, nice to get some height without having to worry about blowing it. Esp. without a spotter, hah!



















LRC : A 2 Problem Short



LRC : A 2 Problem Short from Redcrashpad on Vimeo.

Sick Day

This morning my tips are pink for the first time. Probably because of how hard we raged at the Magic Wood yesterday. I've made a little goal for myself to climb every V9 at the woods. Doesn't matter if it's turdy or sweet, have to climb it. Yesterday I did three in a day, I'm pretty sure it's a first for me. However, I must say hats off to Paul who threw down so hard.

He started the day with New Base Line V14, moved on to Deep Throat V13, Steppenwolf V13, The Arete V12, Free for All V12 and Son of a Gun V9. Which makes for 73 points of new problems in only 7 boulders. Ahem, GNAR. Not to mention we only climbed for about 4.5 hours. Jyeah-yah.

In other news my camera is BROKEN. Paul's off to Romania tomorrow for a comp, so I'm going to rectify the sitiation in Zurich. Keeeeep on crushin'!

Snakes in a horizontal

Sussie A from EM on Vimeo.

Marathon Boulder, Day 2!!!!!11!

So after a second day of effort, the proud project on the "Marathon Boulder" (formerly the "Matterhorn") still has yet to see a send. Ivan is closest, while the rest of us are getting to just below his highpoint (the real business move). I feel good, but scared as fuck that high off the deck (which is pavement) with only a few pads. Let's take some serious padage soon.





Also, this line on the right arete got some attention at the end of the day. A different style, and perhaps not as classic, but still stand out in its own right.

P-Rob vs. La Pelle

P-Rob vs. La Pelle from Garrett Koeppicus on Vimeo.

Hullo Hullo. A quicky from a short moist sesh in Cresciano this past Sunday. Mr.Robinson was psyched on getting this footage up on his blog so I cut this together today while resting. Jyeah-yah.

Also, there's a pic on the front page of 8a.nu taken by yours truly. Lofls.

pysched on magic wood tomorrow! should be gnar!

BIG UP FROM SWEEEZZZZYY!

HALLLLLLLLLOOOOO FROM SWEITZERLAND!!!!!!

How are you all? Well I hope!

As I see it, You can't facebook until you flickr. And you can't flickr until you update the Dab. And you can't update the Dab without climbing. So I've been climbing.

Everything went smoothly on the 2nd when Paul and I flew in. We rendezvoused easily, got our car, and even made it to our apt with no major hassles. The day was hot, and we were super jet-lagged so we just hiked up to Cresciano to scope it out. Dreamtime is REDUNKULOUS. First boulder we checked out. Psyched on having scoped the area we headed back to the apt, and planned on hitting up the boulders the next day.

Except that it rained. It rained for six days straight. Hard. With one brief interlude to the magic wood on friday the 5th when all of two boulders were dry. Oof. But the weather broke, and we've been shredding it up!

Paul and I are living in the town of Claro, which is:
-5 minutes from Cresciano
-25 minutes from Chironico
-35 minutes from Brione
-50 minutes from The Magic Wood

In those rainy days we scoped all of the areas, and they are pretty bangin. Bouldering by the river is pretty hard to beat.

In the sunny weather we've been hitting up the Magic Wood which is SPECTACULAR. The river boulder (supernova, neverending story etc, is quickly becoming one of my favorites, the setting is redunk).

There's a rad british crew that we've been climbing with, and we're already getting requests for UK editions of dab shirts. Haha EXPANSION.

Uploading here has been somewhat frustrating but to quote Paul "Dude, consider that we're hijacking wireless by sticking our computers out the window". LOFLS. so yeah. The seal has been broken, you can expect regular updates.

We're off to Chironico. Flickr update to begin this evening!

ENJOI.

xo,
G.

p.s. To envision cresciano, Imagine PCG, but more of it, and with bigger bouldarz. Yes, that is correct, more PCG. SNAP. So psyched for the days of 0 C.


Dabbing in Swizterland, Part I from Garrett Koeppicus on Vimeo.

Central Park Choss

Dab

Last Sunday

pic by Laura



pic by Laura

Who's down to go back in a couple weeks after it gets a little cooler? I really wanna send that first rig.

Farewell Dabber

king kong

live long, bring shirts, and prosper.

Fall will soon be upon us.

And I'm returning from the great American west with an abundance of psyche. I hope you will all join me on my quest to spend much more time on the boulders of New York this year. You've been officially invited. See you Tuesday night.

.s.s. said it best

it's good to roll deep.

Simple Post

Depart JFK International 16:00 Sept 1st
Arrive ZRH Inernational 08:15 Sept 2nd


Depart ZRH International 13:00 December 12
Arrive JFK International 16:05 December 12